Monday, October 24, 2011

Romera serves "leek infused water" and pond run off in latest example of scientific cooking done wrong.

I've been skeptical of scientific cooking for a while now but in light of the recent proclamation of El Bulli as the best restaurant in the world (I'm not a millionaire so I couldn't get a table) it seems to have gained some popular credence and of course imitators. One such place seems to be Romera, owned by Spanish Doctor/Chef Miguel Snachez Romera, which serves what they call Aqua Gourmond with each of their 11 courses. This is basically flavored water, but not the 50 cent endorsed vitaminy kind. No these are "the latest innovation in high cuisine, ingredient-driven waters that compliment the flavors and aromatic properties of each dish," according to the website. For example one course is complimented by a potato leek infused water. NY times food columnist Frank Bruni simply calls them "pond runoff." A prime example of too much fuss and not enough substance, do you really think your diners are going to be so impressed by the high concept of herb water (every course comes with an index card explaining the philosophy of the dish) that they're going to forget it tastes like shit?

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

California D Bags ban Foie Gras


Oh California, liberal enough to protect its farm animals from French people but not pass gay marriage. It was recently brought to my attention that the state of California is banning the sale and production of one of the most sacred of French delicacies, foie gras. The law, which goes into effect in 8 months, has been met with applause from animal rights activists, who argue that the process involved in fattening the duck livers is inhumane (it is), and meet with groans from foodies and Frenchies who argue that the stuff tastes really good (it does). For my readers who are not familiar with the process of making Foie Gras allow me to explain. A duck or goose, being a migratory bird, has an incredible capacity to gain weight. The bird is force fed (although not always)by tube, a diet of boiled corn and fat. This diet contributes significant fat deposits in the liver, which is then cut out of the slaughtered bird and slow cooked traditionally with a little bit of brandy or in a variety of other ways. I can describe to you how foie gras is prepared but I can't really tell you how it tastes, except to say that no food which I've eaten so few times has left such an impression on me. You can tell from the title of this post that I oppose the law, but unlike others who oppose the ban I don't deny that this process is inhumane. Below is a link to a New York times article which better outlines some viewpoints of people against the ban but basically many of them argue that the birds actually enjoy being fed, or at least don't mind it too much. I can't really tell myself that a bird enjoys getting a tube shoved down its throat so it can eat many times more what it would eat in nature, just like I don't think the lobsters most of us boil with no problem aren't in pain the whole time they're clawing at the side of the pot. The issue these foods raise is how cruel are we willing to be to animals to create something so delicious. Somehow I live with myself eating both lobster and foie gras. People tend to come up with excuses to justify cruel methods, like lobsters primitive neural systems can't feel pain (they sure act like they are in pain). I don't come up with excuses for eating these dishes. self indulgence plays a big part in my love of these foods, but there is a sharing aspect to it. I want other people to experience the joys of eating the dishes like soft foie gras confit served with apple purée,brioche croutons and cipollini onions. Chefs like Thomas Keller (who serves the afore mentioned dish at Per Se) bust out the goods when they prepare a dish like foie gras. There is an incredible respect in the food world for the animals we kill in elaborate ways. This sounds paradoxical, but anyone who has seen the preparation that goes into a foie gras dish can't deny the amount of care with which it is made. By banning Foie Gras you are essentially banning the one of the highest forms of expression for an art. Maybe not everyone can live with themselves eating foie gras, but we should at least have the choice.

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/16/us/in-california-going-all-out-to-bid-adieu-to-foie-gras.html?ref=dining